Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
